The type of maintenance that offers the single biggest benefit to your vehicle’s appearance is basic cleaning through regular washing.
Defining a Routine Car Wash
Car washing is the process of removing loose dirt and road film from your car’s exterior surfaces.
That means more than just a good hosing! You have to scrub it with a car washing soap using a quality wash mitt.
You’re about to learn the best way to wash and dry your car. Follow a few simple pointers and you’ll be well on your way.
Right now you may be thinking…
“I want to get the job done without scratching and swirling the paint finish or removing wax protection.”
No problem! But first…
Proper Car Washing Importance
Never, ever skimp on washing and drying. I can’t stress that enough!
In fact, most damage to a car’s exterior finish is self-induced by using the wrong car washing products or methods.
I’m talking about swirl marks, fine scratches and dull paint.
And it happens over time, creeping up on you over a period of months until all of the color and shine is sucked out of your paint.
So what is the solution?
Simply avoid unnecessary damage by using knowledge, a good car washing and drying tools and a decent car washing soap.
In other words, do it right or don’t do it at all!
Utilizing a 2-Bucket System
Many detailing enthusiasts use a two-bucket wash system.
The first bucket holds your soapy water, and the second one holds rinse water. The latter is used to rinse your wash sponge or mitt prior to dunking it in the soapy water.
This method has two practical benefits.
First and foremost, it keeps dirt and grit out of your soapy water where it could cause damage to your car.
Second, it makes the suds in your soapy water last longer, because your car wash shampoo doesn’t have to react to any dirt to may be putting back into the water.
Does that make sense?
Never, Ever Wash a Hot Car
To begin with, work in the shade.
A hot surface causes the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly, increasing the likelihood of water spotting.
Another trick is to park on a slight incline. This allows rinse water to run off moldings, trim and recessed areas.
Start by thoroughly wetting the car’s finish with a medium spray of water to remove loose grit and surface dirt.
Wash the Tires and Wheels First
There’s a problem if you wash the car body first — the water will dry and spot your car before you can finish washing the tires and wheels.
Do not use the same wash water on your car’s paint as you used on your tires and wheels.
Believe me! Throw the dirty water out and refill your buckets.
But here’s the most important part…
To properly clean your tires and wheels, you’ll need a 3 to 5 gallon bucket, a soft tire and wheel scrub brush, a sponge or washcloth, a water hose and nozzle, car shampoo and a good acid-free spray wheel cleaner.
Warning: Do not clean your wheels if they are still hot from driving. Let them cool on their own! Likewise if your brakes are hot, spraying them with cold water may cause damage.
At this point, let’s go through the whole wheel cleaning process in more detail…
Step-by-step tips to make tire and wheel cleaning easier:
- Clean only one wheel at a time.
- Mix a bucket of soapy water with a well regarded car wash shampoo/conditioner, using double the recommended strength.
- Thoroughly rinse the tire and wheel with a strong water stream using a hose and spray nozzle.
- If your tires and wheels have a heavy coating of brake dust or road grime, mist with wheel cleaner. Allow the cleaner to soak for at least 30 seconds, but less than 3 minutes.
- Use a short handle tire and wheel scrub brush and your soapy water to agitate the tire and wheel surface. Use plenty of soapy water.
- Use your wheel brush and soapy water to scrub the accessible areas of the wheel wells, too. This small detail keeps your car looking fresh and new.
- Thoroughly rinse the tire, wheel and wheel-well. Use plenty of water to ensure that all traces of the wheel cleaner and soap are gone.
One more thing: Dry your tires and wheels, using a detailing towel, after washing the rest of your car.
Spot Treat Bug, Tar, Sap and Bird Stains
Not everything is smooth sailing.
Stubborn problems, on your paint and other surfaces, may require an insect remover or pre-wash cleaner. A paint-safe bug sponge may be needed.
A good solution is to have handy a supply of Microfiber Bug Scrubber Sponges.
Be Sure to Use the Right Car Wash Soap
What kind of soap do you have in your garage?
The high-quality car washing soaps made today are very gentle on paint, plastic and rubber. A good car wash soap should provide enough lubrication to prevent scratching as well as conditioners to maintain a shine.
What I recommend is getting a shampoo with built-in conditioning action such as P21S Bodywork Shampoo.
It also has everything I look for in a wash shampoo including nice suds (not too much), good lubrication, free-rinsing, and a wonderful gloss effect that makes the car look like it was just waxed.
Oh, yeah, it smells great, too!
My other car wash soap, as previously mentioned, is Meguiar’s Gold Class Car Wash/Conditioner. Like P21S it’s gentle, cleans well and it has a great fragrance.
Remember to Rinse Frequently
Frequent rinsing is especially important when your car is super dirty. If you are washing on a warm day, keep the whole car wet to prevent spotting.
I use a final rinse of free-flowing water (nozzle off the hose), allowing the water to sheet off the car. This makes drying much faster.
Purchase a Top-Quality Wash Mitt
Your choice of a car wash mitt is super important.
First of all, select a one that’s comfortable for you to use, but also take a few things into consideration.
Your wash mitt needs to hold a lot of soapy water.
The more it holds, the more soapy water you can get on your car. This is key for lubrication. The lubrication created by soapy water is what prevents dirt from scratching the paint.
Basically, use a wash mitt that cleans easily.
If it doesn’t easily release dirt and grit, it’s not safe. I personally like wash tools with a lot of fibers, like a lamb’s wool mitt or a cotton-chenille-covered sponge.
A safe wash brush can be used on the lower body panels, but should not be used above the bottom-of-the-door line. Remember this!
While we are on this topic, let’s set the record straight on something…
The natural sea sponge and the boar’s hair brush are not good wash tools. Relics of the past!
What You Hold in Your Hand Counts
Here’s a truth bomb:
It’s best to use quality microfiber wash mitts for washing.
These tools have a large number of fine filaments that draw dirt and grime away from the surface being cleaned into their internal structure.
Synthetic (flat-sided) sponges and washcloths can trap dirt, grit and grime on the surface, which can scratch your car’s paint. Microfiber wash mitts and pads are great. They hold lots of soapy water and are gentle.
Behold: The Wash Bucket Solution
You may be wondering why I have a topic for wash buckets.
So, let me ask you a question, where do you think all of the dirt and grit on your wash mitt goes? Right back into your wash water, right?
That’s a problem, because it’s the dirt and grit you’re trying to avoid to prevent scratching.
A great product called the Grit Guard™
It is basically an insert that fits in the bottom of any standard 5-gallon utility bucket. It traps dirt below the insert, keeping it away from your wash mitt, brushes and other cleaning tools.
It works great!
You Must Know These Car Drying Tips
Before drying, your car should be freshly rinsed and free of visible dirt, grease and oil. Once you’ve done that, here is the proper way to dry a car:
- Remove the nozzle from your hose and turn the water on with medium pressure. Rinse your car, allowing water to flow freely over the surface but do not directly spray the water. The free-flowing action will cause the water to sheet off, carrying 80% or more of the surface water with it. Allow the car to drip dry for a minute while you get your drying tools.
- If you have a paint-safe squeegee, use it on the windows first. Follow the squeegee with a synthetic chamois or a microfiber drying towel.
- Use a clean drying towel to dry the remainder of the car. Start at the top and work down. If you’re using a large drying towel, throw it out over the flat surface areas and slowly pull it toward you across the surface of the car. Shake and turn your drying towel frequently. To prevent streaking, fold your towel into a square for wiping.
- Once the exterior is mostly dry, open the doors and wipe down the jambs, sills and seal areas. Dry under the doors, or your sills will get wet again as soon as you close the doors.
- Use a terry detailing towel to dry your tires and wheels. Do not use your good chamois or drying towel on the tires and wheels, as it will become soiled.
- Open the trunk and hood to wipe down the jambs and seals. On the engine, use the damp towel you used to dry the tires and wheels to remove dust and light oil from the top of the engine and compartment surfaces. After wiping down your engine, put the dirty towel in the wash. Do not use it on your car again until you wash it.
A Word About Drying Towels
A towel is a towel, right? Unfortunately, no!
If you grew up in a house like mine, Mom retired the old bath towels to the garage for car and dog duty. What she didn’t realize is that most bath towels use a backing material that contains heavy polyester thread.
The edges of the towel are stitched with polyester thread, too.
What’s the big deal about polyester?
Pound for pound, polyester is stronger than steel. This is great for long-lasting bath towels, but it’s not so good for your car’s paint.
Traditional polyester and polyester blend thread easily can easily scratch an automotive paint finish. Your car’s paint will be a swirled mess. The solution is microfiber!
Dry Even Faster With a Water Blade
If you want to dry your car in a hurry, use a Water Blade!
A Silicone T-Bar WaterBlade is a paint-safe squeegee that quickly removes at least 90% of the water from your car with just a few strokes. Follow up with a good microfiber drying towel, and you’re done in half the time.
If you use a paint-safe squeegee, be careful. It only takes one small dirt particle between the blade and your car to create a fine scratch.
The secret is to rinse your car well and wipe the blade with your hand after each pass.
It’s easy. I have been using my Water Blades for many years with zero issues.
After Washing and Drying Your Car
Regardless of how gentle your car shampoo is, or when you last waxed your car, driving and washing deplete the wax protection you’ve previously applied.
For this reason, I like to use a quick detailing spray on my car shortly after a routine wash. A good detailing spray renews the “just waxed” shine and extends the life of your wax.
Your tires and exterior rubber trim need a little shot of protection, too.
A quick wipe with high quality protectant not only improves the look of the car, but also has a lasting effect on long-term wear.
Regular washing goes a long way towards maintaining your car’s appearance. Most people forget some of the simple, quick steps that can keep a new car looking new.
Take just a few extra minutes when you wash to wipe down the engine, door jambs and trunk. Keeping these areas clean prevents a bigger clean-up job later.
To make your job easier and more enjoyable, invest in a few good detailing tools.
There’s just no way around it: Quality wash and dry tools make a huge difference.
Car Washing And Drying Summary
Washing regularly is obviously a key part of car detailing. Doing the job right — with quality tools and wash products — makes things easier and prevents scratching.
For a full detail, washing is just the first cleaning step. Washing removes loose dirt, but it won’t remove bonded contamination.
For a deep cleaning job, check out Clay Bar Detailing.